Imagine sipping a crisp, citrusy wine while gazing out over Santorini’s iconic whitewashed villages and the shimmering Aegean Sea.
That glass in your hand? It’s likely filled with Assyrtiko, the island’s signature grape that perfectly captures the essence of this volcanic paradise.
Alex and I spent part of our wedding anniversary on this stunning island, and learning more about its wines was high on my list of priorities. Greece exports very few of its wines, making this the perfect opportunity to explore the unique offerings Santorini has to share.
It’s always helpful to have a little background, and winemaking in Santorini has a history that stretches back over 3,500 years to the ancient Minoan civilization. The island’s massive volcanic eruption around 1600 BCE reshaped its landscape and enriched the soil, creating ideal conditions for viticulture. Since then, vines have thrived on this arid, sun-drenched island, producing wines as bold and unique as the terrain itself.
During the Venetian rule in the Middle Ages, Santorini’s wines gained international acclaim, especially the sweet and aromatic Vinsanto. This amber-hued dessert wine was exported throughout Europe, earning a reputation for its luxurious flavor and exceptional quality.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Santorini’s wine history is the survival of its ancient vines. Unlike many other wine regions, Santorini was untouched by the devastating phylloxera pest that ravaged European vineyards in the 19th century. The island’s sandy, volcanic soil proved inhospitable to the pest, allowing Santorini to preserve some of the oldest, ungrafted vines in the world.
The island’s weather conditions may seem harsh at first glance—hot, arid summers with relentless sun and strong winds—but they’re precisely what make Santorini a paradise for grape growing.
The island’s volcanic soil, rich in minerals but low in organic matter, forces the vines to work hard to survive. This struggle results in lower grape yields but with intensely concentrated flavors—a hallmark of Santorini’s wines. The lack of rainfall is balanced by the island’s unique humidity, which rises from the Aegean Sea at night. This moisture collects on the vines, providing just enough hydration to sustain them.
Another key factor is Santorini’s constant winds, which serve as a natural defense against pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical interventions. These winds, combined with the island’s intense sunlight, help grapes ripen fully while maintaining their bright acidity—a perfect recipe for creating crisp, balanced wines.
Santorini’s vineyards are unlike any others in the world, thanks to the island’s ingenious kouloura vine training method. This centuries-old technique was developed to protect the vines from Santorini’s harsh climate while allowing them to thrive in its volcanic soil.
The kouloura, or “basket,” method involves training the vines into a low, circular shape resembling a nest or basket. As the vine grows, its canes are carefully woven into this round structure, with the grapes developing inside the basket, close to the ground. This shape serves several purposes:
A closer look at the key players:
🍇 Assyrtiko
The undeniable star of Santorini’s vineyards, Assyrtiko is a white grape celebrated for its crisp acidity, minerality, and versatility. Representing about three quarters of Santorini’s planting, Assyrtiko is often described as having citrus and stone fruit notes with a saline finish. For dry Assyrtiko wines, fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks to maintain the grape’s bright, fresh characteristics, and are typically released within a few months of harvest. These wines don’t require extensive aging and are designed to be enjoyed within 1-3 years of release.
Some producers, however, use oak barrels for fermentation or aging, which adds complexity and subtle notes of vanilla or spice. For Assyrtiko wines that undergo oak aging, the process takes longer as the wine is left to develop more complexity and integrate with the oak. These wines often spend 6–12 months in barrels before bottling, with some producers opting for additional bottle aging before release. These wines have excellent aging potential, and can develop beautifully over 5-10 years. With time, their sharp acidity softens, and they take on complex notes of honey, nuts, dried fruits, and a richer texture while retaining their unique minerality.
In addition to the classic dry styles, Assyrtiko is also used in blends and to produce the island’s famous Vinsanto—a sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes. For Vinsanto, the grapes are left to dry under the sun for about 10-15 days, concentrating their sugars before fermentation. The wine is then aged for about 2-5 years, depending on the producer’s style, developing a rich, amber hue and complex flavors of dried fruit, honey, and caramel. These sweet wines can age for decades, developing deeper flavors and a luxurious texture over time.
🍇 Aidani
While Assyrtiko holds up quite lovely on its own, Aidani complements it in many blends by adding a softer, more aromatic profile with hints of floral and tropical fruit notes. Aidani is less well-known and rarely produced as a single-varietal wine.
🍇 Athiri
Athiri is one of the oldest grape varieties in Greece, with a history that stretches back to ancient times. It is often blended with Assyrtiko and Aidani to soften the intense acidity of Assyrtiko and add a touch of fruit-forward sweetness. These blends result in well-balanced wines with lower acidity and a smoother, rounder mouthfeel, making it more accessible and easy-drinking.
🍇 Mavrotragano
Though whites dominate Santorini’s vineyards, the red grape Mavrotragano is making a name for itself. Known for its dark berry and spice notes, this grape produces structured yet elegant wines. Once on the brink of extinction, Mavrotragano is now experiencing a revival, with a growing number of producers crafting limited quantities of these unique reds. Single-varietal varietals often have fine tannins and good aging potential, making them a favorite among collectors and enthusiasts.
🍇 Mandilaria
Mandilaria is another red grape grown on the island, often used in blends rather than as a standalone wine. It contributes bold tannins and deep color, making it an excellent partner for Mavrotragano or other red varietals. Its flavor profile leans toward darker fruits with a touch of earthiness.
The wines of Santorini offer a perfect match for the island’s fresh, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine.
Santorini is often celebrated for its breathtaking beauty—its iconic whitewashed buildings, dramatic caldera views, and sunsets that seem too perfect to be real. But beyond the beaches and photo-worthy vistas, Santorini offers an opportunity to explore its vineyards and taste world-class wines.
As a travel designer, I specialize in creating unforgettable trips that go beyond the ordinary. If a Santorini wine adventure sounds like your kind of getaway, I’d love to help you make it happen. Click here to learn more about JLJ Travel’s services.
December 3, 2024